Wednesday, March 29, 2006

Free Time in Hong Kong

Sigh, it's already the last day of my trip, I just can't believe it. Where did the time go. (Probably it went to the same place all my pocket money went.)

I had so much I wanted to accomplish today in Hong Kong, and just not enough time to get it all done.

Cultural Kaleidoscope

The first thing I knew I wanted to do today, was take a free class in Tai Chi, which is organized by the Hong Kong Tourism Board. The bummer is that the class was at 8:00 in the morning, meaning another early wake up call. For about 10 minutes I lay in bed, smacking the snooze button, but eventually did get up all motivated to make the most of my day.

The class was quite fun, in a lovely location by the Hong Kong Museum of Art, overlooking the Hong Kong Harbor. (Here, quite foggy, but still a lovely view.)

After an hour of light exercise, and learning about the history of Tai Chi, I caffeine loaded with a quick stop at Starbucks and then head out to my favorite part of Hong Kong, taking a ferry across to Hong Kong island.

I headed out to test out the Hong Kong mid-levels escalator, a half-mile system of escalators and moving walkways that is reportedly the second-largest escalator system in the world. The system takes you through some cool and funky areas in Hong Kong, eventually dropping you in a mostly residential district, a 20-minute walk from the Zoo & Botanical gardens. Despite walking nearly 35 minutes, I'd gotten so turned around that I never found the zoo, so eventually I headed back for my down hill trek back to the harbor. (The walkway only goes one direction.)

I walked through some very cool neighborhoods, and only wish I had more time to explore. My one emergency bathroom stop, ended in a public restroom, which I was concerned about. But, Western bathrooms in this building were plentiful, and the place was clean to boot.

Running short on time, I took the ferry back across to Kowloon, knowing the afternoon would be spent in pursuit of higher arts education. Wednesday's are free admission days to all of Hong Kong's museums.

First I stopped at the Science Museum. With the whole math major thing, I just can't pass up a science museum. It was pretty well geared to children, but I still found myself spending more time here than expected. Of particular fun were the numerous brain teaser puzzles. I spent nearly an hour trying to figure them all out, much to the delight of one Chinese docent, who followed me around to see which puzzles I could complete. She was quite thrilled, and actually applauded me when I got some on the first try. (If only she knew that many of those puzzles were standard fare in my math classes.)

The photo, here, is of a Chinese sailing ship, which is used at the museum to demonstrate the principals of wind force on sail boats. Quite a cool demonstration.

Hong Kong History Museum

At the suggestion of Lilly, the guide we had on yesterday's city tour, I then went to the Hong Kong History Museum. I'm not so much a museum person, I find many of them tiring after about the first hour, but not so for this museum.

I would go so far as to say that this should be a MUST SEE part of everyone's Hong Kong itinerary. I spent hours here, and could have easily stayed longer. Every room had life-size recreations of true life situations in Hong Kong's past. From the pre-historic age, to modern day Hong Kong, the recreations included life on a Sampan, a recreation of a 1950s tea house, an herbal medicine shop, just to name a very few. Here you see a recreation of a Chinese wedding.

This museum took you step by step through Hong Kong's colorful history, and truly made learning fun. (I know I sound like a spoiled kid, but the place was amazing.)

Now approaching 5 pm, I decided to head back to the hotel for a short rest. I'd been on my feet since nearly 8 this morning, and was starting to feel the burn. At the hotel, I just couldn't resist having an ice mocha and a chocolate truffle cake from the hotel lobby and carrying it to my room. The cake was so very yummy.

The weather had cleared a little bit, and I was able to snap this lovely view shot from my hotel room, while inhaling the chocolate cake.

Despite all that sugar and caffeine, I took a nice long nap, and really only woke up around 8 pm. I'd been toying with the idea of taking a harbor cruise, as I'd wanted to see the Hong Kong night time light show, but my concierge had recommended against it, telling me that the fog might preclude having a great view. At any rate, my nap kind of took care of that.

My plan was to go to Temple Street that night, to enjoy the night market and the open-air food market, but at 8:00 pm I no longer had the energy or the desire to set out on a new adventure. Instead I wandered around my neighborhood, stopping at a chain restaurant known as Maxim's.

Here I enjoyed a delicious final dinner, which included a BBQ platter (roast crispy pork, and roast goose) followed by a steamed crab stuffed with glutinous rice. (No that isn't gluttonous, although with as much as I ate, it probably should have been.)

Despite my desire to extend my final night, I pretty much crashed out right away.

The following morning I woke up raring to go, but with a 9:50 pick up time, there wasn't much for me to do, but try to fit all my Disney merchandise in my luggage and head over to the airport.

The trip has been an amazing one, and I just can't believe it is already time to go back. I'm already counting the days until I can return to Asia and do it all again.

(Of course I'm also looking forward to coming home and getting started on my Sake research.)

Hong Kong City Tour & Hong Kong Disneyland

Okay, today I woke up feeling wholly rejuvenated. My view from my fancy-schmancy 15th-floor hotel room is quite lovely, although the blanket of fog precluded me from seeing a whole lot of Hong Kong early in the a.m.

This morning's buffet breakfast (here at the Harbor Plaza Whampoa) was fabulous. Lovely dim sums and congee broth made up the majority of my meal, but I did weaken and couldn't resist the chocolate croissant.

Hong Kong City Tour

After breakfast we departed for our half-day city tour. The first stop was at Victoria Peak, normally the place to ooh and aah over the fabulous Hong Kong skyline. Due to the fog today, my photos look pretty similar to the ones I took at Mt. Fuji last week, but still the photos around the peak gave us a pretty good idea of what we were missing.

Our next stop was at the bustling (okay I do realize that I am resorting to using cliche's here) Aberdeen Harbor. As I've enthused repeatedly, my childhood upbringing at an Eastern Canadian seaport has caused me to have a permanent love affair with all harbors.

I just love seeing the fishing boats, mixed in with the Sampans, mixed in with the mega-complexes along the coast. We took a thoroughly enjoyable Sampan ride through the harbor, where I took nearly as many pictures as I did in Guilin a few days prior.

Following the harbor cruise we headed over to Stanley market, where I resisted most temptation and only spent about $10 on some Hong Kong paintings for my mom. (I was feeling so proud of my restraint, but the whole Hong Kong Disneyland trip blew that right out of the water.)

We returned to the hotel at around 2 pm, and despite the fact that I was SOO craving dim sum (you know the kind I like with hundreds of people and carts and ratty decor). However, I didn't have a lot of time as I had to get to Disneyland and I knew it was closing about 8 pm. So I asked the hotel for their suggestion, and got the standard, you should enjoy dim sum in our hotel. Not having the time or energy to go looking for a place, I did stop for a snack in the hotel. It was quite lovely, and I especially enjoyed the soft shell crab dish.

Hong Kong Disneyland

After that, I was off to Disneyland park. The park is surprisingly easy to get to. A short (less than 30 minute subway ride) and I was at the main gate. The final transfer is from the main subway line, to the Disney only line, serviced by special Disneyland rail cars, complete with Mickey windows.

As rumored, the park is fairly small, with only four lands--Main Street, Adventure Land, Fantasy Land, and my favorite, Tomorrow Land.

Of course the very first thing I did was get on my most favorite of all times ride, the one, the only, the incomparable Space Mountain. A mere 10 minute wait for the ride, which was a dream come true.

I realize I went to the park during the day (arrived at 3:30 pm), on a week day, during a light sprinkle, but I was quite ecstatic with less than gigantic crowds. Lines here were quite minimal, and I thoroughly enjoyed myself. In fact I thought I'd just stay for a couple hours, but found myself leaving the park at 9 pm that night. (Among the last of the people to leave.)

In addition to Space Mountain (which I rode twice), I also went on Buzz Lightyear (and made it to level 6, which I NEVER do in Anaheim), Winnie the Pooh (cute), the Jungle Cruise (which had some fabulous fire effects not found in Anaheim.) I also saw the stage show "The Golden Mickies" which felt a little like I'd taken some hallucogenic drugs (Mickey, Minnie and Goofy talking in Chinese.) Plus all the chorus singers singing in English with Chinese accents. (UNDA DA SEA). They had a token buff Western Boy who had some severly quick costume changes, as he transformed from Tarzan to the Surf Dude in Lilo and Stitch and then on to Aladdin.

Also, I went to see a fabulous 3-D show called Mickey's Philharmagic, which we don't have in Anaheim, but I think is in Florida. LOVED IT. The musical instruments take over when Donald puts on Mickey's magic conductor hat and the audience gets an overview of some of the best of the best Disney music, with accompanying moview footage.

Oh by the way, since so much of my blog has been about the culinary wonders of Asia, I must say that I loved the food inside. I was worried it would be a lot of hamburgers and fried chicken, but I don't think I ever saw any American food. I ate a whole dim sum platter, but there were plenty of sushi, noodle, BBQ and other Asian specialties. Inside the Plaza Cafe, the entire decor was in a Mulan theme, and it was so lovely, that I recommend anyone visiting the park make sure they have time for a meal here.

I stuck around for the fireworks, which was a kind of combo of Anaheim's Fantasmic and the Fireworks show. I think it was a little shorter and not quite as stunning, but still quite enjoyable. What was totally fun was that almost every single person in the park held up their cell phones to try to capture pictures of the fireworks. It looked kind of like that commercial where everyone in the stadium uses their cell phone to light the stadium.

Then I headed to Main Street to do a little shopping. This is also where I realized that I need a serious 12-step shopping program when I get home. Intervention time here people. I bought shirts, and souvenirs and collectibles. On the subway home, I'd slung three big bags full of Disney stuff across my back. I took comfort in the fact that I wasn't the only person hauling home serious merchandise. (Nearly everyone in the park had done their fair share of shopping.)

Back at the hotel, feeling a little hungry, I ventured to a local restaurant, where I enjoyed a lovely won ton soup, and a side of stewed duck. Again, far too much food, but boy did it taste good.

In my hotel room, I didn't even bother trying to fit everything I'd just bought in my suit case. All that shopping had just worn me out.

Tomorrow, my last day, and I have no specific plans yet, other than to take an early morning Tai Chi class.

Monday, March 20, 2006

Guangzhou/Canton & Hong Kong

Guangzhou/Canton

EARLY wake up call today (5:30 am) to make my flight from Guilin to Guangzhou (still known to many Westerners as Canton.) I'm feeling weary today, a little cranky, and ready to go home.

Despite the rain and humidity, I quite enjoyed Guangzhou.

We stopped at the Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall, where there was a rehearsal going on for a Oriental Medicine Show. (That’s what my guide told me, although it could have been a faith healing show too.) The dance number we saw being rehearsed was about a girl with a crutch who limps through an East Indian dance routine, only to find her leg miraculously cured, and herself the star of the show.

After that we visited the Chen Clan Temple, a place built with money raised from donations from members of the Chen family (Irene, have you been here). The location served both as a private temple for the Chen family, as well as a place where members of the family could go to study for the civil examinations.

Here’s a statue of a female lion, playing with her cub. This is where the guide explained to me his version of life and how gender roles are supposed to work. I don't think we quite had the same opinion about that.

In fairness, he did give me a ton of great information about Guangzhou too. It is still known to many in the west as Canton. And despite the fact that it is home of many things Cantonese, including the language, the Chinese government only recognizes Mandarin as the official language, so now people in Guangzhou are trying to convert over to the national language.

Also, Guangzhou is the one place in China where Americans adopting babies can go to get the proper Visas for the babies to leave the country. So all over the city you see group tours of Westerners carrying around their newly adopted Chinese babies. It was kind of sweet to watch, even for a tired-out grouch like me.

Next was the dim sum lunch. Quite good, but I was also spoiled by the excellent food in Xian and Guilin. After lunch we headed over to the train station, arriving somewhat early, and no coffee shop in sight. Sigh, I’m seriously jonesing for an Ice Mocha right about now.

Once I passed immigration (which you still need to do to travel from China to Hong Kong), I found (YAY!) a coffee shop. Ice Mocha was on the menu, and they made this delightful drink with coffee ice cream instead of ice cubes. Perked me right up.

On the train ride I met a woman who lives in Hong Kong but was born in Spain. We chatted for the hour and a half ride into Hong Kong.

Before I left Guangzhou, I was seriously ready for this trip to be over.

Hong Kong

The second I hit Hong Kong, I felt wholly rejuvenated. I just love this city. Can’t get enough of it. And my hotel is just so awesome. I’m staying at the Harbor Plaza Hotel Whampoa, facing the harbor. Right now, as I type, I’m watching ferries cross between Kowloon and the pier right next to our hotel.

This evening I took a walk along the waterfront, washing away the last of my cobwebs. There is just nothing (okay, almost nothing) like sea air to cure what ails me. Must be the Eastern Canada upbringing, but give me salt spray and a windy day, and I feel right at home.

Was going to get something to eat in the room, so I could enjoy my view, but then found a funky restaurant and couldn’t resist trying it instead. Ordered a cream of seafood soup with a puff pastry topping (yum), escargots with melted cheese served on a bed of mashed potatoes (double yum) and finished off with Shanghai noodles.

On my walk back to the hotel, I bought an Egg Tart, which I’m polishing off as I finish today’s blog. It’s past midnight now, so I’m off to bed.

Tomorrow, a city tour, and then Hong Kong Disneyland. MIC KEY MouSE!

Li River Cruise -- Guilin City

Today shall forever be known as the day I took 263 pictures. Did my dad proud today, and I know had he been here, he would have out photo-ed me in a heartbeat.

Guilin City

My guide tells me that Guilin is known for four things, mountains, water, caves and rock terraces. She promised we would see all of them today, and we did. We were working on a shortened schedule (due to the change in flight time, I now only have one day in Guilin instead of the day and a half scheduled.)

At any rate, for those of you who have never heard of Guilin, it is the area in China that serves as the inspiration for most of nation's most beautiful, scenic mountain, river, and mist watercolors.

(Oh by the way, before I forget, remember what I said about the Sheraton Xian having the best breakfast in China? Forget it, the Guilin Sheraton wins hands down. I wheeled and dealed my way into the Chinese breakfast buffet, and boy oh boy, was I in dumpling, sparerib and various other dim sum delicacy heaven. My guide had suggested I eat a big breakfast as the lunch served on the boat would come at the most scenic time, so I may want to eat late. Being ordered to eat a big breakfast was NO problem for me, so I had seconds of the spareribs with black bean sauce.)

Li Jiang River Cruise

The cruise itself was a leisurely four hours. It wasn't completely a meditative experience, as there were always about 50 people on the sun deck jockeying for the three best photo spots.

Furthermore, there were about six boats just like ours caravaning down the river, making it difficult to get a great photo of the river itself without tons of boats in the picture. Obviously, despite the boat caravan, I still managed to do okay in the picture taking area.

However, the scenery was unbelievably amazing. Great poets and presidents have used better words than I could come up with to describe it's beauty, so I settled for eating up digital camera battery time.

Life along the river was also fun to watch. Because we traveled on a Sunday, the banks were particularly active. In many of the villages, the farmers wandered down to the river with their children, just to watch the boats go by. Children waving, and we delighted tourists waving back.

Speaking of waving, the weirdest and coolest and just all around fun experience were the boat loads of Chinese tourists traveling in the opposite direction. They would all stand on the deck of the boat waving at us, and as soon as one of us would wave back they would all jump up and down and cheer and just go crazy. We soon started to wait for the Chinese tourist boats to go by, just so we could hear them cheering.

Of course there were the requisite vendors selling numerous products along the river as well. All of these guys would paddle by on these super narrow rafts (usually just five bamboo poles wide) that didn't seem very stable. Water would slosh through the poles, wetting their feet, which were bare anyway. However, bare feet and all, most of the guys also wore some kind of suit jacket. The haggling from upper sun deck to raft was a hoot to watch, and became almost as fun as searching for Chinese tourist boats.

So my guide was correct in telling us that some of the best scenery did happen during the lunch period. In fact, ultimately I ended up skipping lunch, as during this time, there were only two or three people on the sun deck.

If you ever find yourself taking this cruise, I highly recommend you pack a lunch box, or bring along some snacks as the best time really is when everyone else is downstairs fighting over the buffet line.

Drive Through the Countryside

After we landed, the guide and driver escorted me to a local jade museum (bad news, I’m now two pieces of jade richer, but of course I really needed the good luck stone for my business) followed by a lovely drive through the country.

The first peach blossoms were blooming, and in addition the rape seed flowers were blooming in the fallow rice fields. My guide, worried that I might starve (if only she knew my eating schedule, but luckily she can’t see this blog, as it is blocked in China), stopped at several roadside farm stands to buy me some fresh oranges and pomelos. Oh gosh, such sweet fruit off the vine.

Reed Flute Cave

Next we got to explore one of Guilin’s largest caves, the Reed Flute Cave. This place was huge underneath, so large in fact, that my guide told me that they often hold special events and dinners inside. There were so many carvings and shapes, but my favorite scene was this one shot outside of the reflecting pool. Kind of resembles a miniature cityscape, no?

After the cave, it was on to Fu Bo Hill (sigh, more steps) which offered a really delightful view of Guilin City. At the top, I made a new friend, who’s entire English knowledge consisted of “Los Angeles, Very Good” and “You Very Beautiful.” I’m such a sucker for flattery. By the way, too bad my thumbs up in this picture, as it is hiding my newly acquired jade pendant.

University Art Gallery

Our final stop, on this adventure-packed day was a stop at the Guilin University Art Gallery. The University is the home of most of the most famous watercolor, oil painting and waterink masters in China. Many of them are professors at the university, and many of their works are on display at the art gallery. (Can you just hear my wallet crying out.)

At any rate, we took a brief overview course about Chinese watercolors, and you can kind of see my masterpiece behind me to the left. I wanted to buy this teacher’s art work, but he was a little TOO experienced (in the price range area) for my tastes. Didn’t stop me from buying some other watercolors (did you notice the use of the plural “some” as opposed to the singular “one” here) from some of the University’s more gifted students. Bad, bad, bad. BAD.

My official driving tour had ended, and with a warning to be ready tomorrow morning at 6:45 am sharp, my guide headed out.

Not being in the mood for more hotel food, today I wandered over to the Guilinese Good Luck restaurant. Their fabulous menu had the weirdest and coolest stuff on it, and I just couldn’t decide for the life of me what I wanted. I ended up with a beef soup with cilantro, a plate of noodles, another Guilin specialty of deep fried pork ribs. Sounds gross, should have been gross, but tasted SO good. My final dish was a barbecued pigeon (served head and all.) Also a new favorite for me, although I’m probably going to leave the pigeon hunting to the professionals.

With a 5:30 am wake up call, I didn’t even care that I was in bed by 8:30 pm and asleep by 8:31.

Shaanxi Museum--Xian

As promised, today was a very light day.

My wake up call came at 8 am, and I was only required to meet my guide at 11 am. So instead of getting up and blogging or whatever else I thought I was going to do, I rolled right back over and went back to sleep.

Then when I woke up a second time, I read a book. Oh so nice to be able to take it easy. Of course, by this time, I'd hardly left myself enough time to have breakfast and finish my packing and check out.

By the way, breakfast in Xian (yes, a one-track, food-obsessed mind, I know) was the best breakfast yet in Asia. In addition to yesterday's yummy noodles, Xian is also known as a dumpling city. You know the kind of fun dim sum dumplings I can NEVER get enough of. So fabulous breakfast had a couple types of dumplings, and I was in heaven.

Shaanxi Provincial Museum

Our first stop today was at the Shaanxi Museum. I think I've ODed on China history today. I finally had to buy a book (notice the emphasis on HAD TO) covering China's history and civilizations. No way I was keeping all the details straight otherwise.

Oh by the way, I'm traveling here in Asia in what is known as the off-season. It is not even spring yet (even saw some snow in Japan, boy does that feel like years ago) and as such the tourists are not out in full force. Because of that, I've had a great opportunity to take advantage of many "off season" discounts. Another thing to consider if you come to this part of the world.

Anyway, the book was priced (printed on the cover) at 360 yuan, but I was offered the amazing price of 250. Fun, I love a discount.

Didn't take too many pictures of the Museum, but just had to share this wine jug. The alcohol gets poured through the animal's little mouth, and replenished through a trap door on his back. Gotta get me one of these at home. (I swear the spending is out of control.)

Amazing Dumplings

After the Museum, we enjoyed lunch at the most amazing dumpling restaurant in the world. They kept bringing steamer basked after steamer basket to my table, each one featuring four or five different types of dumplings.

Of the ones I can remember, there was a walnut shaped dumpling stuffed with, what else but walnuts, there were fish dumplings, chicken dumplings, spicy dumplings, scrambled egg dumplings and candied dumplings. I also enjoyed a spicy squid dish to die for. I really pigged out at this place, and I think this is the first restaurant where I pretty much ate everything they gave me. (But how was I going to discrimate one dumpling against the other? I didn't want to hurt their feelings.)

After that it was on to the airport for my flight to Guilin. Here's another tip on travling to and through China. Domestically, they are very strict about your luggage only weighing 20 kilos total. (Not per bag). Fortunately they were quite lenient about carry ons (as I had two and a half plus a jacket), but my bags just made it through at 23 kilos (the guy gave me a 3 kilo bonus.) Gotta remember to drink the beers I packed tonight to lighten up my bags.

This makes it quite difficult in traveling the long journeys, so make sure to pack accordingly. The flight was uneventful, but bouncy. It was if they sling shot the plane into the air and then bounced it off the Qin Mountains. I don't believe the seatbelt sign was ever turned off for the whole flight. Even still the flight gave us a lovely snack of what else but Xian noodles. (Afraid I couldn't eat that much, as I was still replete with my lunchtime dumplings.)

Guilin City

Guilin seemed lovely upon site, although it was already dark upon our arrival. The airport had a lovely little light display welcoming guests.

It was immediately obvious that this is a considerably smaller city than either Xian or Beijing and the pace seemed much more mellow here.

Despite my late morning, I'm still feeling sluggish tonight, so have decided to forgo Guilin's culinary calendar in lieu of a quick dinner in the restaurant and an early night. Did drink one of the beers in my suitcase (gotta watch that overweight limit) but didn't accomplish much more than that.

Xian Terracotta Warriors

With all the big adventures I've had so far, in China, it hardly seems possible that there can still be more to awe and amaze me, but today was another such day.

Terracotta Warriors

This morning was completely dedicated to visiting the world-famous Terracotta Warriors of Xian. Here I've shown a picture of part of the entire arena (which is large enough to house three soccer fields), just to give you an idea of the immensity of this place.

Okay my ears are about to blow off my head, I've learned so much about Chinese history today, but in a nutshell, the first emperor of the Qin (pronounced Chin) Dynasty did many great things for China. He was the first emperor to unify the separate states into one country. He also standardized the Chinese language, weights, measurements and currency. Furthermore he ordered all the walls of the original six states making up China, linked to form the Great Wall.

However, he was a bit of a megalomaniac, and among using and abusing his manpower (on building the wall, forming his armies, and having them search for the source of eternal life), he spent much of his national income building his "underground palace" which is the Chinese-ism for tomb.

In addition to the actual tomb he built many surrounding memorials, etc., including a great memorial battlefield, which is now the Terracotta Warriors pit. It is now said now that you can basically walk anywhere in Xian, and likely find historical items lying on the ground.

Anyway, shortly after his death, the peasants formed a giant uprising against the out of control harshess of his rule (and his son's rule) and staged a giant revolt. They found the underground pit of the terracotta warriors and smashed every single statue, stealing the weapons the figures carried for their own uprising. Here you can still see some of the warriors that have not yet been righted.

Every single statue you see in the pit (standing or lying down) has been refurbished by seasoned archaeologists, using the original clay of the period to cover the breaks and holes. None of the warriors were found whole. Plus in parts of the pit, you can see the original burn marks of where the peasants burned parts of the pit.

Anyway, this pit was only rediscovered in the mid-seventies by farmers digging a well. They found a piece of a statue and turned it over to the government. That piece was just one head of what is now this internationally famous dig site.

By the way, the farmers were each given 6 yuan (less than $1) for finding the pit. Now, though, the one farmer works at the museum signing autographs in the official Museum Catalog. A little cheesy, no? However, I guess it's better than farming, even if he is the whole reason the catalog sells. By the way, yes I did buy one of the catalogs and had to pay extra to have my picture taken with the guy. But heck, I look at it this way, I paid him more for my photo, than the Chinese government paid him for finding the pit. :)

Xian Noodles

By the way, did I mention that one of the specialties of the area is home-made noodles? Lunch today, was in the Xian Terracotta Museum area.

In addition to having two made-to-order dishes, completed by active noodle chefs, the restaurant placed a ton of other great dishes in front of me, including a dried bean curd and garlic dish that was simply fabulous.

But other than the bean curd (which I finished) I hardly touched the rest of my lunch, as I spent most of my eating energy consuming the home made noodles and pork sauce and the homemade noodles in beef soup. Here you can see one of the noodle chefs hard at work. The noodles (as well as a salad bar and a dessert bar, neither of which I even tried) were all you can eat, so I'm not even sure why the restaurant bothered putting down five other dishes.

Xian City

Originally my schedule called for an early departure tomorrow morning to Guilin, but since I'm traveling off season, there are no early morning flights to be had, which means an extra half-day in Xian. As a result we spent the afternoon visiting some more of the historic aspects of Xian, including the city wall. This was a lovely area, surrounded by red lanterns, and very peaceful. It was a gorgeous day to watch people flying kites in the plaza below.

After the city wall, we visited the Goose Pagoda, which includes a type of "Art Park" surrounding the Pagoda. In each of the historic buildings there is a different kind of artist, with displays ranging from papercuttings, to waterpaintings to wood carvings. I managed to resist spending any money here, except for the 5 yuan (50 cents) I needed to ring this bell and make a wish. I figured 50 cents was a healty investment into my wish for a rich husband.

After the tour of the city, I actually had time to rest (joy!) at the hotel, before the commencement of our evening activities. I slept the whole time, and didn't even bother to check my emails. (Emails didn't matter so much anyway, as my outgoing emails weren't working here anyway. China has these very strong internet censors and heaven knows what will and won't be readable. None of my blog entries are readable to me, so I'm just hoping everything comes across okay.)

Tang Dynasty Performance

Tonight we enjoyed a VERY delightful dinner show which included an hour-long traditional Tang Dynasty show. The Tang Dynasty in China was one of the most prosperous (and might I saw one of my favorites, as the larger size person was looked upon favorably. This is the time that Buddhism was introduced into China, which is why most of the Chinese Buddhas are the plus size beauties they are.)

Anyway, the show had such beautiful costumes, dances. One segment featured "plucked string instruments" and before seeing this part of the show, my only thought was "just kill me now." With my most due respect to the Japanese Koto and the Korean Gayageum, this is not my most favorite form of Asian music.

However the music was delightfully light and lively, I belive it was called something like "Eternal Spring," and included pan pipe music played by a most androgynous male, who of course stole the show.

Late Evening Massage

We returned back to the hotel around 11:00 pm, and after a brief time trying to get my email to work, I ventured out into the mean streets of Xian in search of a foot massage. For $20 I enjoyed a two-hour accupressure massage with one-hour dedicated to my feet and another hour dedicated to the whole rest of me. Heaven!

I was ensconced in my own little private room, got to watch Chinese soap operas the whole time (had no idea what the heck was going on, but when the woman was shot in the back on the bridge, I was fully engrossed), sipped my dollar beer and let massage boy take over.

Is anyone else sensing a theme to my Asia trip? Massages, beer, food and stair climbing. Nearly in that order.

Got home after 1:30, sipped a little more beer, and dozed off soon thereafter. Not too worried about the time, as tomorrow's going to be an easy day.

Saturday, March 18, 2006

Old Beijing

My last day in Beijing. While I'm loving the complete north Asian overview of this trip, it also feels like I just barely get to scratch the surface of a city, before it is time to move on.

Hutong Pedicabs

For my final morning in Beijing, we were able to enjoy a pedicab tour of Hutong, considered the old city. Hutong is this charming part of Beijing with narrow streets, and all the buildings are in the old style—one story with grey tile roofs.

We’d driven through this part of town briefly the night before, so I was glad to be able to take a closer look. It is kind of an eclectic mix of old and new, sort of like the rest of Beijing. Along the river, there is an area known as “Bar Street” which in the summer months is packed to overflowing with locals spilling out of the doors of their favorite watering holes, all with river front views.

Our first stop on the tour was to meet a local family, pictured here. Mr. Wu and Mrs. Wang. I was able to take a peek around their house and courtyard, which nosy me really enjoyed. They live in one house on a courtyard, while the other two houses in the same area are occupied by their sons, daughters-in-law and grandchildren. Their entire courtyard area would originally have just made up the (rear) daughter’s courtyard of the original nobleman’s house.

Although Mr. Wu spoke no English, we did get to chat through an interpreter. Now retired, he was originally an archaeologist for the Chinese government, with a specialty of porcelain and metalware. When they would unearth a new dig site, the pieces found would be sent to Mr. Wu for dating. Very cool stuff

After our chat with the Wu Family, our next stop was at a kindergarten school. While it was fun to see the children, I actually found this place kind of sad. Many of the children (aged 2-5) stay at this school all week long, only going home on weekends. Some of the kids are even long-term boarders and don’t go home for a month a time.

I just kept 4emembering my days at summer camp and how depressed my seven year olds would get when they were separated from their parents for just three or four days, Anyway, I’m sure the children get used to it, but I couldn’t imagine being separated from a two year old.

The children here were quite cute, and very mischievous, so it was fun to watch them in high-energy action. May, my tour guide, had bought me a candied fruit stick, and stupidly we carried the candy into the kindergarten. So the whole time we were there, the kids plotted ways to steal the candy from us. When we did finally turn over one stick, there was a near war over how they were going to share the candy.

The final stop on the tour was a visit to the Huton Bell Tower. I think my Hutong guide was hoping I’d want to skip the climb to the top, but no way, I’m not missing a thing. So up we went, on what turned out to be a steep, but not difficult climb. The view was quite nice from the top, and here you see a photo of the roofs of Hutong in the foreground and New Beijing in the background.

Hutong is directly on the main Meridian lines I was talking about a few days ago, so we were in direct line, immediately between Tiananmen Square and the Ming Tombs. The Hutong Bell Tower was the original end of the Meridian Line, before the Ming Tombs were built. (As an interesting note, the Beijing Olympics Village is also being built on this Meridian Line, somewhere between Tiananmen Square and the Hutong Bell Tower.)

After the Hutong Tour, we stopped for lunch at a Sichuan (Szechuan) restaurant. The food here was quite good, and I enjoyed a Kung Pao Chicken (among many other dishes) that had some kind of very fragrant peppercorn attached.

After lunch it was time for me to head to the airport. May (pictured here) and my driver, Mr. Su, knowing how much I enjoyed the Chinese 56% rice wine had bought me some loose tea and some rice wine as a present for being such a nice guest. I really enjoyed traveling with them, and wish they were heading on with me to my next destination.

At the airport May and I even had time to enjoy a nice Starbucks (total Mocha withdrawls here), before I boarded my plane.

Xian City

Xian is considerably larger than I expected it to be. In total the city is about 7 million people, with about 5 inside the city borders and another 2 outside. I guess I expected it to be more of a country village, but I was very wrong.

Because I arrived at Xian rather late, my dinner tonight was to be in-hotel dining, at the Sheraton hotel, which is quite well known for it’s cuisine throughout the area. However, as soon as I learned it was Mediterranean food, I rebelled against the system.

I knew that Xian is very famous for a type of lamb stew with dumplings, so I found out (from the gift shop lady) a place that serves this famous dish. She wrote everything I needed in Chinese, so all I had to do was show the taxi driver and off I went.

My 20 minute taxi ride into downtown was only $1.50 and the dinner, which included a huge bowl of the most delicious lamb stew, as well as a bowl of Hot & Sour Soup (giant-sized) and two large sized bottles of beer, only cost me $6. I was living like a queen.

Tomorrow morning, we’re off to see the Terra Cotta Warriors, Just can’t wait.

Friday, March 17, 2006

The Great Wall

Today I climbed the Great Wall of China. It almost feels like I don't need to say anything else, that one feat seems so incredibly huge to me. The wall is as impressive and breathtaking as anything you could possibly come up with in your minds.

I'm still in "I can't really believe I'm here mode" and this experience has left me oddly at a loss for words.
What I did not know (expect) was how cold it would be up there. Of course common sense should have told me that we were mountain trekking, but at the summit (888 meters, or nearly 2,700 feet about sea level) it was dang high, dang cold, and dang windy. I also did not expect the climb to be as steep as it was. I was huffing and puffing along the way.

Here's an image of one of favorite (not) staircases, a steep difficult climb to the next guard tower. I was bound and determined to make it to the highest point, even though my guide kept pointing out that no one back home would ask if I'd made it to the top part, only if I'd been to the Wall.

What was also surprising is that even though it is a little bit off season for visitors, there weren't nearly as many Western visitors as I thought there would be, and the higher I climbed the less of them made it that far along. It made me even more bound and determined to make it to the top. (At one point in the home stretch when I saw the final staircase ahead of me, I almost gave up.)

The Wall is about a historical site as you can imagine, but it has these odd, eclectic modern touches thrown in. Directly next to the wall is a huge construction site, that May told me was likely going to be a super-sized advertising billboard. Sad. Also there are cable cars going to the summit, but with the winds up there the cars were nearly tilted on their sides. (Not a chance in heck you'd get me on one of those babiles.) And for the semi-intrepid trekkers, the ones who've made it high enough and have no desire to climb back, the wall also offers this roller coaster ride back to the base.

Ultimately I did make it to the highest point, amid cheers of good will from the others that had made it before me. It felt remarkable. At the top was this banner, with a saying from Mao Tse Tsung that basically translates to "No one can be a Great Hero until they've made it to the Great Wall."

I'm so lame, I even bought a laminated, and "offically" stamped certificate letting people I'd made it to the highest point. From this point on, you could continue to walk along the wall a ways further, but you'd have to climb way down and the only way out was to climb way back up to the summit and then back down again, so I figured I'd gone about as far as I could go.

And for your viewing pleasure, I'm enclosing a picture of the walk I've just completed. About two-thirds of the way down on the left side of the picture, you can see a little white-green downward sloping line. That's the roller coaster ride, which is located about half way up the climb, to give you a frame of reference.

Friendship Store

For lunch we stopped in one location of a government-sponsored chain of handicraft stores known as the Friendship Store. In the lunch area were tons of tour groups, amounting to hundreds of Western people, presumably all on their way to/from the Great Wall, although I actually saw very few of them while there.

As I sat down at my little table for one (regulations prohibit your guide and driver from eating with you), at this noisy restaurant, I thought to myself, I'm really going to hate this mass-produced, Caucasian-oriented food, but as usually, it was so delicious. They offered me sweet and sour pork as my main dish, and I though "uh oh" but it was quite tasty. And the side dish, a chinese greens with salted Shitake mushrooms was so good, I ordered seconds, leaving many of the other dishes barely touched. (I hate wasting food, but there's just too much to even try to clean your plates.)

After lunch came the big challenge. Me with my commitmen not to spend more money, and a store full of handicrafts! I look at embroidery, cloissone, water colors, silks. Sigh. And of course bought a gorgeous scenic mountain (in Autumn) watercolor. Plus I bought some Chinese Watercolor paintsticks. Cost: $150 Value of the Memories: Priceless (or at least that's what I keep telling myself.)

Ming Tombs

This afternoon, we stopped at the Ming Tombs, a gigantic area housing the tombs of 14 of the Emperors of the Ming Dynasty. Many tombs have not been excavated due to concerns of grave robbers, as well as other logistical issues, but the area was huge and impressive.

Can't find my notes now, but I think this area was called Serenity Walkway, a gorgeous and meditative area, housed with many varying types of statues. Here I'm standing in front of a general, garnering support for when I take over as Empress Dowager.

A little more climbing, to the top of the Emperor Chang's memorial tower, but as May said "After the Great Wall, this staircase is a piece of cake!" I enjoyed the Ming tombs area, but I think anything would have been anticlimactic after the Great Wall.

Peking Duck

Finally, my whole reason for being in China, an evening of Peking Duck. Tonight I was invited to a lovely dinner by the Manager of the China arm of Pacific Delight Tours. We went to an outstanding restaurant, known as Quanjude, one of the oldest restaurants in Beijing, and the home of Peking Duck.

Without a doubt, this place is a must-see attraction in Beijing. Manager Wang kept ordering all kinds of really tasty dishes (duck breast sauteed with cashews, lemon duck, similar to orange chicken, but with duck fried in lemon and pineapple sauce and sesame-crusted duck breast) as a side to the main course. Oh my goodness, it was all so good I didn't know where to start.

But as good as everything was, the Peking Duck was simply the best. Just heavenly. While I said earlier that anything would be anticlimatic after the Great Wall, this certainly was the perfect cap to an awesome day. (Oh by the way we also got to enjoy a lot more of that lovely 56% alcohol rice wine, a special brand bottled just for the restaurant.)

Tonight, another massage, and then tomorrow, historic Beijing and then on to Xi'an to the Terracotta Warriors.

More later.

Wednesday, March 15, 2006

The Forbidden City

I’m in China, in Beijing. This, as with Cuba, has always seemed one of the impossible, fantasy destinations. And now I’m here.

Tiananmen Square

It didn’t really hit me, how exciting this was, until I was standing directly under Mao Tse-Tung’s picture, hanging on the entrance gate to the Forbidden City. Then all the books I’d read, the images I remember, suddenly accumulated in a meeting place in my brain, and that’s when I truly realized, “I’m actually here.”

Today, the first stop was Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. I can’t even begin to start typing all the new knowledge I’ve acquired about China today. May (my tour guide) has jammed my brain full of information, and still it keeps coming.

Tinanmen Square is impressive in it’s hugeness and the concept behind it’s layout. The square, the Forbidden City, and even the Ming Tombs, some 36 miles away are all laid out in a straight line the Beijingers call the “Meridian Line.” Everything else is basically measured in reference to these main meridian points.

Tiananmen Square is one of the largest (if not the largest) city squares in the world. Today was particularly impressive, as it was the end of the National People’s Congress, a meeting of the officials from around the country. Because of the meeting, security was really stepped up in the area, making it an impressive visual. Across from the People’s Hall there’s a huge sign (sponsored by Omega Watches) is a giant billboard counting down the days and minutes until the start of the Olympics.

The city is definitely caught up in Olympic Fever, and everywhere you go you can signs, promotions and general reminders that the Olympics are coming. Many buildings and structures are being newly built or refurbished just in tie to open for 2008.

The Forbidden City

After Tianananmen Square, we entered the Forbidden City. So cool. What I learned is that Mao Tse-Tsung never entered the Forbidden City. He was the first leader to declare China a People’s Republic, and among the establishment to help do away with the Feudal System (and the Emperor system.) He wanted nothing to do with the Feudal System, didn’t want the old ideas tainting the new way of life, so did not ever visit the Emperor’s residence.

Of course, at the Forbidden City, I was most interested in the way of life of a concubine. Even made May take me to see their quarters. (Pictured here is May with another colleague from Pacific Delight Tours. Working very hard at their jobs.) I could talk for hours alone about the things I learned about their lifestyle. But by the end of the tour, I realized, I really wanted the life of Empress Dowager Cixi, an infamous “ruler” here in China, who is generally known as “The Voice Behind the Throne.”

Her life is legendary, and among some of her exploits, she would enjoy 120 courses for her meal. The cost of one of her meals alone could have employed 5,000 people for one day.

By the way, no problems with the toilets in China. Most of them have at least one Western Style seat. And, some of them are even highly rated.

The Summer Palace

Our next stop was the Summer Palace, where the Emporer’s family would spend the summer months. Here, is where I really wanted to become Empress Dowager, as I certainly could see myself living here.

Despite the general sadness of the place, this is where Empress Cixi would keep her nephew the Emperor under constant house arrest (we saw his living quarters, which she would lock up every night) it was a gorgeous location with a lovely view of lake Kunming.

After spending time coveting the Summer Palace, we stopped at a pearl shop, where we got to look at pearls that were actually grown in Lake Kunming. This was some of the Empress’ favorite type of jewelry, so naturally I had to own some too. (So much for not spending money in China.) I’m now several strands of pearls closer to becoming Empress Dowager.

Chinese Acrobats

So wearing my fancy new pearls, I then had the opportunity to catch the world famous Chinese Acrobats in action. This picture shows my favorite act, the lions, each of which was made up of two guys doing acrobatics in complete unison. Here you see four of them balancing on the ball.

At night, I enjoyed dinner in a delightful restaurant called Merry Lin. My favorite dish was a dried bean curd in a sweetened soy sauce with mushrooms and a type of lily flower. Yummy. Here the wait staff would congregate near me, practice saying a sentence in English to each other, and then come over as a group to say the sentence. So cute.

By the way, I’ve learned in China that I’m a big fan of their local beer, known as YanJing Beer. It’s a flavorful beer, maybe like a Sam Adams back home.

And tonight, finally, finally I got my in-room massage. While I thought the hotel massage prices were pretty good, May arranged an outside woman to come in for just $20 for a 90-minute massage. A combination of reflexology, oil, and pressure, with 45-minutes dedicated just to my tired feet.

Tomorrow it’s off to the great wall, and the Ming Tombs.